The dramatic and inspiring account of the very first attempt to climb Mount Everest, published to coincide with the centenary of the expedition of 1922.
The first attempt on Everest in 1922 by George Leigh Mallory and a British team is an extraordinary story full of controversy, drama, and incident, populated by a set of larger-than-life characters straight out of an adventure novel.
The expedition ended in tragedy when, on their third bid for the top, Mallory's party was hit by an avalanche that left seven men dead. Using diaries, letters, and unpublished accounts, Mick Conefrey creates a rich, character-driven narrative that explores the motivations and private dramas of the key individuals—detailing their backroom politics and bitter rivalries—who masterminded this epic adventure.
Mick Conefrey is the author of the award-winning Adventurer’s Handbook and How to Climb Mont Blanc in a Skirt. An internationally recognised filmmaker, he has produced several BBC documentaries on mountaineering and exploration, including The Race for Everest. He lives in north Oxford with his family.
While even regular uninterested people know the name of Edmund Hillary and his success at being the first white man to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 (the other man with him was his Sherpa companion, Tenzing Norgay), few know of the first major attempt to climb the mountain in 1922. In fact, I (and Mick Conefrey) would argue that it is in fact the 1922 attempt that is the more important expedition.
A very British group of gents:
The 1922 attempt at Everest, being the first known historical account of anyone actually attempting to climb to the summit of Everest, is almost a story that writes itself. The grandeur of the moment, the experimental nature of using oxygen for the first time, the complete unknown over every ridge and through every crevice...it's a story that should draw anyone in to the nature of the unknown and the wild attempts to plan for it. First European encounters with mountainous Tibetan villages, the lack of any technology we take for granted today (e.g. lightweight tents, freeze-dried food, high efficiency propane fuels, clothing actually made for such an environment); heck, even the descriptions of mountainous vistas... ALL of it should easily make your soul stir for adventure, your mind float over the ice-capped peaks, and your limbs quiver with trepidation over the unknown of the next day.
Unfortunately, sometimes this book does that, and sometimes it doesn't. You see, the problem with the book is not the story; the story is perfect. The problem with the book is the writing. Mick Conefrey did an Extraordinary job in researching this book, and regularly cites relevant journal entries and letters to add color to the moment; however, the best written parts of this book are those same journal entries and letters. Coneferey's writing takes a high-flying colorful character like George Mallory, and makes him seem like a boring robot. Conefrey's descriptions of the Himalayan mountains, or Everest itself, pale in comparison to the journal entries of the expedition members; that is, if Conefrey decides to even describe them. Conefrey writes as though he's making an entry log: [They went here. Camped for the night. Traveled to the next village. Hired guides. Slept a day....etc:] (my hyperbolic representation, of course, but you get my drift). Conefrey has on his hands an immensely interesting story, with intriguing characters, and the most outstanding environmental setting one can ask for... and he writes them like a snore-fest.
Don't get me wrong, the book is good. Really good. It is an essential book for anyone interested in the history of Mount Everest mountaineering, and it is so well researched that I will be surprised if it does not become cited by students in future papers. Conefrey just needed a co-author; a writer who could bring the story he has to life. Who could make you taste the Yak-butter tea of the Tibetans, feel the biting chill on your face from the howling wind, feel the desperation in the minds of the men when they broke their oxygen valves at higher altitude than they could handle without it. The story is SO good, so very VERY good, it just needs a writers touch.
Allow me to give an example: In Conefrey's description of the moment the party sees Everest for the first time, he says: Everest was roughly sixty miles away to the south-west. At first it was hidden by cloud, but gradually the skies cleared, revealing both the North and East faces and the North-East Ridge running directly towards them.
Luckily, we also have George Mallory's journal entry of when he saw Everest the first time: Mountain shapes are often fantastic seen through the mist: these were like the wildest creation of a dream. A preposterous triangular lump rose out of the depths; its edges came leaping up at an angle of about 70 degrees and ended nowhere. To the left a black serrated crest was hanging in the sky incredibly. Gradually, very gradually, we saw the great mountain sides and glaciers and aretes, now one fragment and now another through the floating rifts, until far higher in the sky than imagination had dared suggest the white summit of Everest appeared. And in this series of partial glimpses we had seen a whole; we were able to piece together the fragments, to interpret the dream. However much might remain understood, the center had a clear meaning as one mountain shape, the shape of Everest.
Ahh, that's more like it. Give me the lyricism, give me the passion through the words, show me the beauty of the moment, dammit, don't just tell me!
Mallory and Norton on their first attempt at the summit:
One thing Conefrey makes a very admirable effort to do, is to put this expedition in context. The historical moment of it, the technological moment of it, and the political moment of it; there is a lot about this expedition that is truly pioneering; even their interactions with the local remote Tibetans is a pioneering moment for any Western-European nation. The amount of tins of various foods they had to hoof along in backpacks should be a record. Conefrey wrote a fantastic Prologue and Afterword, and he clearly is passionate about the subject (and well he should be!), but unless the reader is passionate about the subject too then this book might not do it for them.
The 1922 expedition of the first attempt to climb Everest, was a landmark. It broke the altitude record, it showed the climbing world the known unknowns and the unknown unknowns, and the price of having to face both (sorry for the Rumsfeldian interjection but I couldn't help myself). In many ways the expedition was a enormous success, and also an enormous tragedy. Seven people lost their lives needlessly, due to the party's inability to accept their failure; the knowledge and experience the expedition brought back likely saved numerous lives of future mountaineers. This group of people, attempting to climb the tallest mountain in the world for the very first time ever, made history, made fools of themselves, and became legends.
If you have any interest at all in the first ever attempt to climb Everest, then read this book; the content is so good that it will hold your interest all the way through. Otherwise, better to get yourself some interest in it, and then come back and read this book; then its good content will hold your interest al the way through.
This book concerns the second of Mallory’s three Everest attempts, and arguably the least written about. The previous being the year before, and the third, the much documented expedition of 1924 on which he died. Conefrey attempts to get to the reason as to why the expedition failed. Initially, it was a huge challenge to even get to the mountain, straddled between Tibet and Nepal, both of which were closed off to the world. Funding was also incredibly difficult. But having overcome those hurdles, after many years of planning, the expedition was drastically poorly equipped with particular regard to clothing. It also suffered from a lack of food despite taking more than 800 cases of provisions, which included 24 bottles of champagne.. This is a book for devoted to the history of the mountain. Whereas much of what Conefrey relates is not new, his research is impeccable and there is plenty of minutiae, some of which is of interest. There’s always a danger in this sort of book in becoming nostalgic in not simply recounting the facts, and Conefrey does fall into that trap on occasions, but overall the book was worth the read, if for nothing less than the half dozen or so snippets of information that I was not already aware of.
Another seemingly great topic that ended up being an unsatisfying read. The author writes in a workmanlike style which drains the story of drama and panache. It wasn't uninteresting, just un-thrilling, and un-moving. As usual, more and better-reproduced maps and photos would have helped. I have grievances about the editing as well (shocking!). Several times "they" is used when the rest of the sentence/paragraph is referring to a specific man. Not many men, not someone of unspecified sex. Why? Also, Conefrey (or, more likely, some clueless 23-year-old copyeditor) uses modern names for Indian cities (Mumbai, Kolkata) but then on the very same page refers to the capital of China as Peking. What on earth is going on here? This is distracting and completely ahistorical. At minimum, pick one era and stick to it. But it would be much more correct to use the place names that were in use at the time of the narrative. And if you are just so terribly uncomfortable using Bombay, then put a little author's note in the preface to explain your choice. This kind of thing is sloppy and maddening. Does anyone else get het up about this, or is it just me and I need to get over it?
Tenhle typ knížek moc nevyhledávám, protože jsem si dosud myslela, že číst o tom, jak někdo někam lezl, ještě navíc, když si fakta můžu přečíst na wiki, je dost nuda. Ale tohle nuda překvapivě nebyla a bylo to super! Protože na wiki se obvykle nepíše nic o zákulisní řevnivosti, pletichaření anglických gentlemanů, jejich přebujelých egech nebo neuvěřitelné odvaze a odhodlání (záleží na úhlu pohledu), ani se moc necituje z dobových pramenů a dopisů účastníků (fakt fascinující). A celou dobu jsem měla dilema, jestli jim mám vlastně fandit, nebo jim spíš kvůli jejich jisté koloniální nadutosti přát neúspěch. Ale každopádně jsem jim tak trochu záviděla, že skutečně mohli zažít ještě skutečné objevování.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Before George Mallory died on the North East Ridge of Everest in 1924, he was on Everest twice before. This is the story of the 1921 "Reconnaissance" when the British scouted out the approaches and topography for the first time, and their first official attempt at the summit in 1922. Mallory was on all three expeditions. This is a good recap, with enough detail, but if you want a thorough account, be sure to read Wade Davis's "Into The Silence" (which includes the 1924 expedition.)
Most people agree that Mallory never made the summit in 1924, although there is no evidence to prove he did or didn't, and if he didn't he got reeeeaally close. Conrad Anker found his body in 1999, just below the summit ridge, but Sandy Irvine's body is still somewhere on the mountain, along with the camera they took. I think it is very possible they made it, after studying all the various opinions, which of course would upend the Himalaya saga as we know it, and Edmund Hillary/Tenzing Norgay's 1953 success. Either way, with the South East ridge route eclipsing the popular imagination, thanks in great part to Krakauer's portrayal of the route as over-commercialized, and overwhelmed with client queues, the North East ridge and the West Ridge both hold their mountaineering mystique.
Fascinating account of the first attempt at climbing Everest in the days before technical equipment was invented or the science behind the physiology of living at high altitude had been understood. Lots of gung-ho characters, rivalries, politics and bravery that ultimately resulted in a failed mission and it would be many years before the peak would be conquered.
This book was fine. If you like Everest or mountaineering stories, it's worth a read. I found the pacing to be very slow, the details to be lacking, and the overall tone to be a bit vapid. The cover compares it to Into Thin Air and Touching The Void, both of which I've read and both of which were better than this book. I was frustrated that the book made me wait until the last chapter to get critical details, and a comparison to modern mountaineering. The photos and maps in the book were not good quality - the photos were grainy and the maps were not detailed enough.
The book also felt like it was only grazing on the topic of Sherpas, native Tibetans and colonialism. It touches on these topics, but then dances away from them with bare acknowledgement until the very end of the book, when it's summarizing itself. It acknowledged early on that there aren't many written records by the Sherpas, but then I would have liked the book to do a little more investigative research on the topic. Just one specific example.
Anyway, if you like Everest books, maybe check it out. But I'd recommend Into Thin Air first.
A detailed account of the first Western attempt to climb Everest and the trials and hazards faced in 1920s mountaineering.
- This is a very comprehensive account, and super detailed. I enjoyed this as I like knowing lots of little details but I can see how this could annoy readers who prefer a more action focused experience. For example, we get detailed histories on a lot of the climbers and in detail descriptions of the rations that were packed.
- The detail does lend itself beautifully to picturing landscapes. The aspects of the Himalayas travelled through and experienced by both the reconissence and attempt parties were vividly described and easily imaginable. I would happily read a book similar to this but dedicated to the culture of Tibet and the Himalayas.
- The author does a good job of addressing attitudes in climbing. There's intense and in-depth coverage over the benefits of supplemental oxygen throughout the book. Though not explicitly addressed until the end of the book and the epilogue, the author does discuss the treatment of Sherpas as both porters and guides and discusses some of the systemic racism faced by these people over the last century.
Thoroughly interesting and enjoyable. Would recommend to those who enjoy early 20th century adventure accounts and mountaineering.
A wonderfully well-written and highly accessible account of the first two expeditions to Mount Everest in 1921 and 1922; with an interesting and informative final chapter giving a brief resume of Everest exploration up to the present time, outlining some of the issues associated with the intense commercialisation of Himalayan climbing into essentially an expensive market for high-end tourism, despite all the dangers which still attend to climbing the world's highest peak. If this book had been furnished with references/citations for all the quotes and source material which it makes good use of it would be an invaluable tome. That said, there is a good bibliography pointing the reader on to further reading, both primary and secondary sources, and so, as such, it can be read as a good historical introduction to the early beginnings of Everest exploration. A very amenable book; well-worth reading.
Really good look at the Brits' first attempts at Everest. Makes me want to get my hands on his hard-to-find account of the '53 trek as well. Good combination of backroom politics and action in and around the mountain. Describes things well, though I could have taken even more detail on the actual climbing. Would echo the WSJ's recommendation of this book.
(Though, I've got to say, modern publishers' inability to deal sanely with pronouns anymore has totally driven me nuts. For instance, when George Mallory comes down with what he self-diagnoses as tonsillitis, Conefrey writes this: "It was a severe blow for someone who prided themselves on their fitness." Who writes or publishes a sentence like that with a straight face??)
The story of the first expedition to climb Mount Everest.
This is a fascinating piece of history, taking you back to a time when Everest had not even been mapped. The development of rudimentary oxygen equipment and the controversy this generated was particularly interesting. The influence of the Sherpas and porters was sensitively covered, and I liked the analysis of the whole expedition. I felt that the story lost its punch towards the end however. I think that this might have been a better book if it covered the 1924 expedition as well, avoiding the clumsy references to it in the final chapter that assumes we are all experts. But an enjoyable book nonetheless.
An interestingly slow-paced history of one of the highlights of twentieth century mountaineering. Yes, of course it's a little-known tale about a well-known mountain. But perhaps it is Conefrey's detached view as a history writer which makes the story come together - if one is reading this for its historical import. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a dramatic account of mountaineering in its very earlier days in the Himalayas, this is not the book. It is not "Annapurna", nor "Into Thin Air". But I learned from it.
Pretty good read. Hope to get to base camp over the next few years so naturally have an interest. Felt as though there was a massive lead up to a less than dramatic climax. I think I was only let down because I had previously read ‘into thin air’, which made this a little ordinary. I think my biggest take from this book is the amount of effort it took to get from place to place back in the 1920s. In my opinion, the 1920s expedition shaped mountaineering, especially with the Introduction of oxygen, which was pretty epic.
The blurb review on the cover comparing this book to Jon Krakeur's is spot on. I attempted to read Wade Davis' " Into the Silence" but got lost in all the names and places and dates. "Everest 1922" does a superb job of presenting a large amount of information in a way that doesn't overwhelm you.
Before reading this, I thought the story would go into his final attempt to beat Everest. This covers only the first expeditions, but lays the groundwork, interestingly, for their last attempt. Conefrey does a great job presenting this piece of Everest history. I'm always a sucker for true polar, mountain and cave expeditons. Or, as a matter of fact, any historic expedition.
Not as good as Mick Conefrey's other books on mountaineering though this is perhaps to do with the subject material than any lapse in skill on Conefrey's part. Compared to the expeditions and mountain histories of the rest of his opus, the 1922 Everest expedition comes across as overall more uneventful.
A thorough look at the first attempt to climb Mt. Everest. Unfortunately hampered by what primary sources are available, perhaps too much time spent on the politicking and managing of the expedition, rather than the climbing itself. Very good when, along with the climbers, we're on Everest herself.
I didn't think another Everest book would give anything new, but I was enthralled by the detailed accounting of first attempt to climb Everest. Well paced and full of interesting stories of the many characters involved in mounting an effort to go to the highest point in the world.
Likely deserving of more stars but just wasn't the book for me. I found the last chapter (comparing 1922 to 2022 climbing of Everest) the most interesting while many of the previous chapters caught me nodding off.
Really 3.5 - way more technical and political background on the planning and reconnaissance mission than I was expecting, but once you get to the actual attempt it’s epic, If you are into reading about Everest & mountaineering it’s worth the read for sure.
A fascinating account of two early expeditions to attempt the summit of Mt. Everest, Conefrey tells the story of George Mallory’s first two trips to the mountain. Although the climbers didn’t reach the summit, their experience and mapping of the route they took helped make way for future successes.
Men sitting in their clubs, in their tweeds, planning a grand adventure for the British Empire. With little more than woolen clothing, and only the most basic of equipment, no radios and a month just to get to the base of the mountain, they did pretty darn well. Tough cookies.
A very good historical insight into the very first attempt to conquer Everest. The author draws on many detailed sources, placing them in the context and situation 100 years ago, when mountaineering, and especially in the Himalayas, was in its infancy.
Not the most exciting story, but an interesting look at the earliest attempts to climb Everest and the many obstacles they faced. I definitely want to read more by this author.