An 80-year-old Italian waiter wows folks with his uniqueness

An 80-year-old Italian waiter is charming diners at a Riverside eatery with his Old Country accent, youthful energy and tall tales.

His name is Giovanni USA1, according to his Florida driver's license (more on that name later), and he said he's enjoying his latest gig at Primi Piatti, a 2-year-old Northern Italian restaurant at 2722 Park St.

"It's like a stage and I'm like a prima donna," the Southsider said at the restaurant recently. "My prerequisite for working at a restaurant is good food. I have high standards. I can tell by the smell, color, the way it is presented. The secret is freshness, sophistication."

He gave a thumbs-up and nod to Mario Ferrari, owner of Primi Piatti, who stood nearby. Primi Piatti means first plate or main course.

Ferrari said he lucked out on his hire when another restaurant closed. He said the new guy's skills are unmatched and he's hoping they may even boost business, which has been sluggish. Already, repeat customers are asking for him by name.

"He has such a charisma. In this business, you either have it or you don't," Ferrari said. "He knows how to describe the food here and translate to customers how it's prepared."

On this day, the waiter was proud to demonstrate his eloquence describing the special.

"Scarlet sweet ripe tomatoes served with wild herbs, garlic, basil and a dash of white wine to give body to the sauce," the waiter said. "Here's a portabello mushroom, brushed with olive oil and wild herbs, topped with four cheeses and minced tenderloin in a brandy cream sauce."

Meanwhile, he's physically running circles around the younger wait staff. His health secret: fish, fruits and vegetables and constant movement.

"The more I move, the better I feel. They have called me Barracuda Giovanni, or the Great White Shark, because I see a customer and pounce," he said, chuckling. "I go to church every day to pray for patience to put up with these younger waiters who tell me to slow down. I tell them, I have to keep moving or I die."

Fellow waiter Fred Bachmann, shaking his head in disbelief, said the new guy rocks.

"Reading customers is an art. You have to be personable," Bachmann said. "Giovanni knows real food. He lived on an island. His stories."

Giorgio Garcia, chef at Primi Piatti, said he's worked at the same restaurants with Giovanni off and on for 25 years.

"I love him," Garcia said while braising a hot pan. "He's my favorite server of all time."

Here's how Giovanni, a lifelong bachelor, explains his life story:

Giovanni Ferro was born in 1929 on the Italian island of Sardinia to a family of merchant marines and cattle farmers. He was known as the fearless boy who dove from cliffs. At 16, he moved to France and was working as a sailor when a wealthy French publisher and yacht owner hired him to handle caviar, cigars, flowers and champagne for his socialite gatherings. He realized he enjoyed hospitality and entertainment and began a career in upscale restaurants.

In 1960, he moved to New York and worked at Le Pavillon, a French restaurant. Later, he moved to Florida and worked at restaurants in Sarasota and Miami before coming to the Jacksonville area. He said he has waited on titans of industry, including J.P. Morgan.

He said people joked about his last name, which means "iron."

"So I decide to change my name. In America, you can be called anything you want," he said. "I read books on it."

One of his regular customers who was a judge helped him fill out the paperwork requesting changing his last name to USA1.

The name is on his Florida driver's license, and two traffic citations were issued to a Giovanni USA1, according to a search of court records.

He said his name change request went all the way to the U.S. Supreme Court; however, when pressed after a records check turned up no supporting documents, he admitted that it was one of his tall tales, "to make it a better story."

USA1 said he never married because he cherishes freedom. Today, he still prefers dating younger women. He avoids talking politics because people can be touchy. But he said he feels the United States is going to catch up financially and be OK.

His daily goal, he said, is to make customers happy so the restaurant flourishes.

"I don't make money unless the owner makes money," he said. "I may be crazy. But I know I am crazy. Some people are crazy but they don't know it."