Expect to see the now-ubiquitous bomber carry on into fall. This morning started with an appointment at WeSC (We Are the Superlative Conspiracy), a Stockholm streetwear brand launched in 1999. I was intrigued to learn that Carin Wester, who used to show her own line during Fashion Week here, had recently been appointed creative director. Her first collection, for Fall 2016, featured a hand-drawn lovebirds design, which she embroidered on bombers, made into printed dresses, and knitted into intarsia pieces. Wester added texture (and warmth) to everything from trucker hats to toppers with teddy (faux fur) fabric. It was an upbeat collection, with nice attention to detail, that embraced current trends, including athleisure, and to top it all off, it’s affordable.
The early afternoon buzz was, for me, seeing Ingmari Lamy, a former Vogue model, walk in the Swedish Fashion Talents group show (for Feswa baubles). Later, a ballerina performed for another jeweler, Maria Nilsdotter.
At the last show of the night, no one was cast at all. Filippa K (pronounced Koh) scrapped the runway in favor of an installation that showcased its collaboration with photographer Julia Hetta. The clothes, many pleated in the Miyake style we saw so much of on the Spring runways, hung on racks, among the photos and artwork, which, as striking as they were, had to compete with the magnificence of their surroundings. This event was held at the stunning, modernist Czech Embassy, built and decorated by the architect Jan Bocan.
Clothes were the main focus at House of Dagmar, the label founded by three sisters, Karin Söderlind, Kristina Tjäder (the designer), and Sofia Wallenstam, who named the company after their grandmother who taught them how to sew. There was a sense of anticipation in the room, preshow, and there was excitement afterward. Tjäder, referencing the remote, coniferous, and spooky small-town atmosphere of Twin Peaks, had leaves strewn about the runway, which was filled with mist. Sartorially, hunting-style belts and a standout plaid coat (Look 23) continued the outdoorsy feeling. The trademark knits beloved by House of Dagmar customers were out in force. Many of the coats had soft textures, or were worn, effectively, with a patterned knit thrown over them. Sweaters slipped off shoulders, updating Spring’s exposed-shoulder trend for a colder season, and pencil skirts looked grown-up and sexy. A peak performance.