AZ Factory.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
From Madeleine and Madeleine, an embroidered mousseline de soie evening dress with copper moiré bow.
Illustration by Mary MacKinnon, Vogue, February 1, 1922
Comme des Garçons, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Comme des Garçons
AZ Factory.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.comAfter continually hearing comparisons between the Roaring Twenties and the 2020s, we decided to put the idea to the test by matching looks from 1922 issues of Vogue with those in the spring and pre-fall 2022 collections—and there was plenty of common ground to be found, surface-wise.
The fashion industry has grown exponentially in 100 years and operates today in a trickle-up rather than trickle-down manner, but some things never change, like the nostalgic gesture and the importance of trends. In 1922 the full-skirted robe de style, popularized by Jeanne Lanvin, was starting to get competition from straighter draped dresses. Paul Poiret was still the king of fashion, and Paris set the pace. Though hemlines are no longer of vital importance, there remains a shared vocabulary of shapes and silhouettes—and joy in dressing up.
Come time travel with us.
From Chéruit, a costume of gold lamé with muff bows of green taffeta.
Photographed by Wl. Rehbinder, Vogue, September 15, 1922
Balenciaga for AZ Factory.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
From Maria Guy, a brown panne hat with moiré; worn by Andrée Ricci.
Photographed by Wl. Rehbinder, Vogue, September 15, 1922
Comme des Garçons, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Comme des Garçons
Vogue’s Smart Fashions for Limited Incomes issue.
Illustration by Georges Lepape, Vogue, March 15, 1922
Gabriela Hearst, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst
Lewis’s silver tricorne draped in black Chantilly lace.
Illustration by Helen Dryden, Vogue, September 15, 1922
Vaquera, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
From Doeuillet, a white crepe dress covered in crystal and opaque white beads, some pendant.
Proenza Schouler, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Jonas Gustavsson / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
Louis Vuitton, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Vogue’s New York Winter Fashions issue.
Illustration by George Wolfe Plank, Vogue, November 1, 1922
Simone Rocha, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Collina Strada, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
A pink velvet robe de style by Doucet, with flowers of pink beads and white crystal.
Louis Vuitton, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Molly Goddard, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Ben Broomfield / Courtesy of Molly Goddard
Full-skirted looks from Lanvin. Left: A pink organdy and white net dress with navy blue faille contrast details and matching posies at the waist and brim of the hat. Right: A lavender organdy frock with navy blue ribbon cockades and a linen tucker and sleeve trim.
Illustration by A. E. Marty, Vogue, June 1, 1922
Giambattista Valli, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Vogue’s Summer Homes & Hostess Number.
Illustration by George Wolfe Plank, Vogue, May 15, 1922
CDLM, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
A costume designed by Paul Poiret for a revue titled Vogue.
Illustration by Benito, Vogue, February 1, 1922
MM6 Maison Margiela, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Vaquera, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
Vogue’s Early Paris Openings issue.
Illustration by Benito, Vogue, October 1, 1922
Loewe, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
From Lucien Lelong, a pink crepe de chine dress with ribbon girdle and lace frills worn by Mlle. Jeanne Rolly in Chéri.
Louis Vuitton, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
“The bouffant skirt still intrigues the fancy of the Paris houses, despite the ascendancy of the slim silhouette, and a number of them, including Doucet, Lanvin, and Callot, are still showing models of this type.”
Illustration by Helen Dryden, Vogue, May 15, 1922
Melitta Baumeister, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Michal Plata / Courtesy of Melitta Baumeister
Matty Bovan, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Ruth Hogben / Courtesy of Matty Bovan
Vogue’s New York in Summer issue.
Illustration by George Wolfe Plank, Vogue, July 15, 1922
Issey Miyake, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Issey Miyake
Vogue’s Fashions for Children & Early Autumn Fashions issue.
Illustration by Henry R. Sutter, Vogue, August 15, 1922
Ashlyn, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Sarah Blais / Courtesy of Ashlyn
A black satin dress with a wide skirt by Chanel.
Illustration by Douglas Pollard, Vogue, November 1, 1922
Loewe, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Noir Kei Ninomiya, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Noir Kei Ninomiya
The moyen-âge mode as seen by Paul Poiret. The duchesse de Gramont wears his black velvet dress with black fox border and gold lace embroidered with gold beads. The shoes are embellished with real jewels.
Illustration by Porter Woodruff, Vogue, November 1, 1922.jpg)
On Comtesse de Zogheb, Poiret’s cuirass of lace and zibeline and golden, fur-trimmed skirt.
Illustration by Porter Woodruff, Vogue, November 1, 1922
CDLM, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
A wedding dress designed of brocade and silver cloth designed by Paul Poiret for his niece.
Illustration by Harriet Meserole, Vogue, April 1, 1922
Puppets & Puppets, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
Toinon, one of the six “friends of Vogue,” created by leading artists.
Illustration by Charles Martin, Vogue, August 1, 1922
Puppets & Puppets, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
Vogue’s Vanity Number.
Illustration by Georges Lepape Vogue, November 15, 1922
Noir Kei Ninomiya, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Noir Kei Ninomiya
Vogue’s New York Fashions Number.
Illustration by Georges Lepape, Vogue, May 1, 1922
Ottolinger, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Vogue’s Autumn Fabrics & Vogue Designs for Limited Incomes issue.
Illustration by Helen Dryden, Vogue, September 1, 1922
Rick Owens for AZ Factory.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
By Martial et Armand, an embroidered silk summer- afternoon dress with underblouse.
Illustration by Mario Simon, Vogue, April 1, 1922
Melitta Baumeister, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Michal Plata / Courtesy of Melitta Baumeister
Junya Watanabe, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Junya Watanabe
Rosine, one of the six “friends of Vogue,” created by leading artists.
Proenza Schouler, pre-fall 2022.
Photo: Tim Elkaim / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
From Premet, a blue dress with dramatic black satin ribbon trim. Silver galloon trim at neck and waistline.
Illustration by Lee Creelman Erickson, Vogue, November 1, 1922
Loewe, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
A costume designed by James Reynolds for the Greenwich Village Follies production of The Nightingale and the Rose ballet. This look, for the lady-in-waiting, is made of black Chantilly lace caught and embellished with camellias the color of lemons.
Illustration by Peter A. Juley, Vogue, November 1, 1922
Vaquera, spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com